![]() The in-between is the Glide and Set system, which I had and was accustomed to. Some systems have an arm that will pick up your kayak mid-body and lift it on top of your car – those cost the most. This is not ideal for people who can’t lift 50lbs of awkward plastic without using their back (who can, really?). Common J-Racks are stationary and you lift your kayak up, usually over your head into place. This is basically all based on your preference or ability or preferred ease of lifting/not lifting your kayak on top of your car. The third consideration is the actual “holding system” of the kayak. You’re kind of stuck with the cost of whatever “tower” is needed to attach your bars. The towers on the Jeep I had were rare because they connected via the “gutter system”, something not common on most cars after 2000. Whereas bars are around $100, the towers vary depending on the make and model of your vehicle. These are what cost the most for a custom rack. But if not, the second consideration are the “towers” or the things that hold your crossbar to the top of your car instead of the factory rack. What weight can they hold and can they hold the weight of your kayaks? If they can, awesome, skip to three. With hauling kayaks, there are three considerations at hand. Having said goodbye to my beloved old girl and committing to a new one, I figured this might be a reality. The downside of getting a new car is the possibility that your old kayak roof rack may not plug-and-play nicely with it. The upside of getting a new car is, well, getting a new car.
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